Building a Harness & Hoop for a Blind Dog Step 1 - Shopping List You will need to measure the dog in 3 places A - From just behind front leg to neck B - From neck to tip of nose C - Chest just behind front legs

Parts required A - Aluminium strip (size 25mm x 2 or 3mm x measurement A plus B times 3) For my Jack Russell this came to (A=140mm/5 inches B=200/8 inches) 980mm (39 inches). I used a 1-metre strip (39 inches). You should be able to get this from any major hardware store, or failing that, turn the tables and call a double glazing firm? There are other alternatives right at the bottom. B - Leather Harness, to fit chest- remember that blind dogs tend to put on weight. There are other alternatives right at the bottom. My harness was made by Ancol Pet Products, Ancol House, Bloxwich, Walsall, West Midlands, England , WS2 7DA Tel +44 (0)1922 402428 Fax +44 (0)1922 404983 C - A "Pop Rivet" gun capable of 5mm (3/16-inch) rivets, 3 to 6 mm reach (1/8 to 1/4 inch) D - 5mm (3/16 inch) rivets, 3 to 6 mm reach (1/8 to 1/4 inch) E - Electric drill F - 5mm twist drill (metal electric drill bit)

G - (not shown) Grinder or belt sander or file, plus some fine sand paper Grind the corners off aluminium strip to make round and smooth (or file)

Use sandpaper to make smooth

Put harness onto dog and slide to final fit

Measure the distance from centres of vertical straps

Then drill aluminium 7mm (1/3 inch) from end, and this measured distance (both ends, picture not shown) Drill the harness on lower part of neck vertical strips.

Bend Aluminium strip distance A from ends, 45 degrees from straight

Gently bend middle as shown

Now put a gentle curve as shown

Next, pop rivet front vertical, rivet goes from inside of harness, into leather, then into aluminium

Next, put harness on dog, lift hoop so when the dogs nose is level, the hoop is level with eyes and nose. Mark through hole in aluminium.

Pop rivet from the inside again.

All complete, the harness can be fitted. Thanks to Bruce, my sighted dog, for modelling, and being patient?

Here is the real master of the hoop, Pepe, trying it out

There are many different materials that can be used. Alternative for hoop, plastic oval electrical conduit (has to be gently heated to make a bend, I use an electric paint stripper gun), copper piping (requires special springs to stop tube collapsing while bending, I'm sure you might be able to thing of something yourself. Alternative for harness, I made one from polypropylene webbing, machined it together, and had to use cup washers under rivets. Some people have had trouble getting leather harnesses, so nylon is ok, as long as the weave is tight, and washers are behind the rivet heads to stop the rivet going through the material. But I would recommend leather, it will last longer, and with wear will become soft. The only thing that may not be clear, is the end of the aluminium is rounded off to a "ice Popsicle" shape, and the hole is 8mm (1/3 inch) from the end. Then if dog wearing harness bends, that rounded end pushes into harness, not dog. That aluminium needs to be about 50 inches, by 1 inch, by 1/10 inch, for a Labrador. Also some people have used carpet-joining strips for the hoop, the type without grips, which is screwed to the floor. Make sure if you use this that the part that would have gone uppermost if it was used for carpets, is on the outside of the hoop. Sorry for metric sizes, 25 millimetre is 1 inch. The rivets are 3/16 inch, 1/8 to 1/4 reach. To save buying a pop rivet gun, car mechanics carry these (especially body repairs), but I would recommend buying one because they are cheap, and repairs will be necessary, if your dog gets excited like my Pepe.

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